Stéphane Ashpool whipped together an energetic film and clothes that reflected his view on street style — flashy and richly textured, with a streak of romance.
A model flaunting a long trenchcoat in orange crackled leather trench gave it a dramatic twirl. Another wore a light pink suede bomber, embellished with shiny gold patches. Ashpool elevated classic army garb with rows of bright, orange ribbons, and by contrasting matte with satin materials.
The film presentation brought together a small crowd, providing a measured dose of the in-person energy Ashpool seeks with his shows, which, in pre-COVID-19 times, were packed by the hundreds.
Emphasizing the breadth of his styles, segues were abrupt on screen. Ashpool opened with an intimate jazz club scene, dominated with relaxed and colorful tailoring for the saxophone and piano players, while the audience donned coats with stripes of pastel faux fur. A garage dance scene ensued, and here the young crowd wore hoodies, lots Army green and orange. Some did tricks on shiny bicycles — a collaboration with Dutch electric bike specialist Van Moof, and a nod to the freedom Ashpool found cycling around the streets during pandemic lockdowns. A dance performance capped things off.
“I didn’t think about it much — jazz, the street, dance, that has always been part of Pigalle, so this is what I brought together,” he said, recalling his design process. Ashpool grew up in the neighborhood — his mother was a dancer at the Moulin Rouge. “It’s really a neighborhood that we represent — it’s beyond fashion. I’m more interested in creating characters that come from Pigalle than trying to do a classic fashion show.”