The wrenching impact of the coronavirus came through in Shangguan Zhe’s coed collection for fall, which melds splatters of paint, camo prints, singed streetwear (burnt with a flame torch), hand-painted denim, and metallic spikes and chains.
“The series of disasters in 2020 is like some kind of punishment,” the designer said. “This collection is inspired by self-punishment and asceticism.”
Indeed, some looks seem painful to the wearer — as well as to the eye. A fitted navy jacket and trousers with a military vibe came pierced with spikes. So, too, was an oversize camo jacket worn with a spiky mask. A chain-mail shirt, anyone?
Zhe’s tailoring is well-hewn, especially evident in the trenchcoats and blazers with pronounced shoulders. He mixed high and low fabrics, such as velvet with sweatshirt material.
Othala rune symbols abounded: They appeared tattooed on some models’ foreheads, and decorating Sankuanz’s new bag collection and sunglasses created with Gentle Monster.
Sankuanz’s video was filmed in Tianducheng, a city on the outskirts of Hangzhou, China, that has a replica of the Eiffel Tower standing at one-third of the original’s height. Models walk on and near the tower at night.
“We haven’t released in Paris for two collections because of the pandemic, so we thought maybe we can release the collection in this fake Paris,” Zhe said.
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