The starting point of Sean Suen’s collection was the denim jacket that he found himself reaching for time and again over the past few months. Revisited in burnt orange leather, it had shed its casualness to take on a more dramatic look, but also set the Beijing-based designer thinking about what normal means these days.
Pondering what that is and what happens once its boundaries are breached, the designer played with structure and texture on his habitual repertoire of well-cut suits and tailoring in a lineup titled “The Mediocre Monster.” Fall is always Suen’s better season, as coats and heavier materials lend themselves well to his knack for proportion play. Materials balanced out rigid lines, with thickly textured wools and buttery leathers inviting to the ultimate transgression these days — touch.
Boxy overcoats became handsome carapaces, elongated trousers walked the fine line between attractively oversize and caricature. Even fraying knitwear and raw edges looked ennobling rather than ragged. Emerging from the semi-permanent fog on Chongqin’s riverbanks, where the season’s video was shot, the lineup showed the true face of Suen’s work — nothing monstrous, but certainly nothing mediocre either.