Out to suit up today’s dandy, Pierre François Valette made his debut on the Paris Men’s Fashion Week calendar with a fresh and elevated lineup of sporty tailoring with sensual undertones. The designer paired trim jackets with pleated, high-waisted trousers, and livened up the pinstripes with clever accessories in bright colors. Snug knit sweater vests, unusual neckties that also encircled the waist, and belts came in hot pink, electric blue, sherbet green and neon yellow.
“I work a lot on tailored suits, I use the word dandy — which can sound a bit scary, but the idea is to dust off the term,” said the designer, who gained experience working in the studios of Saint Laurent before establishing his own label last year.
He sought to push tailoring into practical territory, for everyday wear — “without being afraid of looking like a business man,” as he explained.
Like his suits, outerwear was precise — versatile, as well. A long, technical coat in navy blue with three hot pink drawstrings — at the hem, around the waist and running through the hood — had a quilted lining in a V-shaped pattern that could be worn on its own.
Bright silky shirts with sharp collars and sheer mock turtlenecks added further ease to offset the crispness of the tailored jackets — feeding the seductive nature of the collection.