The world’s been going through a rough patch, and Yohji Yamamoto’s cast for fall won’t say otherwise. With hair mussed and faces dusty, they certainly looked a little worse for wear under the lens of fashion photographer Takay.
On the video, reprising last season’s moody effects and tone, models trekked across the carpeted runway of a black draped room to the baleful sound of the designer’s voice — always a highlight for the Yamamoto devotee. Most wore masks, some didn’t — a fact that his team was quick to clarify was merely an observation of current habits, not a judgment.
The state of the world has been weighing on Yamamoto’s mind for a while, so he recast many of his tropes into the wardrobe of a world in crisis. Lightweight fabrics like cotton, linen and silk were a comment on global warming, as the collection notes stated. Cocooning outerwear, duffle coats, tailored pieces with a hint of historic references and surfeit of leather jackets layered over each other felt like imperfect protective padding.
Tougher-looking choices such as workwear overalls or military-tinged jackets, and the ubiquitous utilitarian footwear, exuded a combative vibe. The designer has often been more of a lover, but this time, he’s sided with the fighters. Messages relating to social movements, animal rights or sanitary emergencies were splashed across bodies and limbs, turning them into mobile billboards. “Born to be terrorist” and “You have to take me to hell” were among the slogans.
But for all the darkness of the palette, there could be hope in these dark punks. At least that’s one way of seeing the handful of flowers peeking under layers, and the words “Amazing Grace” in blazing orange on one look.