Continuing to look at the traditions of his homeland through a new lens, Yoshio Kubo investigated “yugen” — the Japanese understanding of mysterious inner beauty. This meant intense attention to detail, reflecting the meticulous sensibility inherent in his culture, the designer said in a Zoom preview.

This was translated in references to the kimono that went from quite literal, as in a diamond quilted jacket in traditional indigo, to more abstract; for example, on the necklines and detailing of the sportier pieces in the collection, or the diagonal fastening that added interest to a beige duffle coat.

Bright orange and utilitarian neutrals were spliced and layered with heritage fabrics like a dyed motif in vivid purple or a jacquard with a floral pattern to create the streetwear silhouettes in the collection.

The digital medium meant that Kubo could showcase the details of his designs close up, unlike with a fashion show, he said. He filmed his models walking through a furniture factory, the masked workers at their lathes in the background, interspersing these images with the painstaking work of a botanical designer perfecting an installation.

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