Even cramped in between Erdem and Richard Malone, Steven Stokey Daley’s sole debut still managed to become the talk of London’s fashion crowd on Sunday night.
Supported by National Youth Theatre artistic director Paul Roseby, the University of Westminster graduate presented his personal take on classic British tailoring and lifestyle with a four-part performance by members of the theater. Some scenes from the play reminded the audience of gay coming-of-age classics such as “Maurice” and “Brideshead Revisited.”
The play touched base on topics like British social class, inequality, school life, sexual awakening, homosexuality and fittingly showcased S.S. Daley’s offerings throughout different settings.
The look: A working-class boy reimagining the elite world fashion, making everything fun, crafty and humble.
Quote of note: “In the collection, I referenced the British public school elites. I am a working-class person but my university was next to Harrow school, which is the second-largest public school in the U.K. The day-to-day traditionalism of that school was so influential to me. Since then, I have been obsessed with picking apart the whole world. The school days, sports culture, the formal eveningwear, intimate dorm, those things.”
Key items: A trench with balloon sleeves; vests cut with asymmetric necklines; a pajama shirt printed with a pattern from Daley’s grandmother’s wallpaper, a white vest inspired by men’s vintage bathing suits; an oversize hand-knit cardigan resplendent with sunflowers; a cotton voile ecru nightshirt, and a suit that references rowing jackets.
Takeaway: Daley’s presentation was beautiful, powerful and mind-propelling. The storytelling complemented the clothes and made it one of the most memorable shows this London Fashion Week.