It seems like Greg Lauren has tried to keep a distance from his family’s East Coast fashion legacy over the years. Working in Los Angeles, he took the art-to-fashion route, from painting to designing, building his namesake brand on drapey, upcycled, bohemian workwear for the creative class.
But for his spring men’s and women’s collection, the designer started a new chapter, venturing into more structured tailoring and sportswear shapes, slimming down silhouettes and simplifying details, resulting in his most elegant, dressed-up pieces yet.
“Instead of destroying existing archetypes, I wanted to invent new ones,” he said of his desire to twist classics, starting with the navy blue pin-striped suit, white button-down shirt and satin necktie (where Uncle Ralph got his start).
His version came in an indigo overdyed pin-striped linen with a shawl collar jacket, wrap pants that nod to the genderless fashion revolution that has men searching online for skirts in record numbers, and a tie made from recycled nylon in keeping with Greg Lauren’s brand value of sustainability.
“We actually introduced this pant in 2016, but it felt like the right time to play with it and elevate it,” he explained.
Another collection must-have was the softly structured tuxedo jacket, in blue engineer stripe, botanically dyed coral pink, cocoa brown or sage green, made using upcycled painter’s pants of all things, with shiny recycled nylon lapels. Worn over the designer’s kimono-like wrap shirts, with baggy faded blue jeans, or a sporty tuxedo pant in nylon with drawstrings down the side seams, they cued into the desire for elevated casual dressing and looked fabulous on both men and women.
There were even a few hints of prep in the puzzle-pieced stitch-work plaid pieces that resembled madras, and the hand-dyed cable-knit cardigans. But layered long shirts, pants with flyaway tails and asymmetric army chambray robes maintained a feeling of modern-day ease.
Lauren played a lot with daring color in this collection, and it felt refreshing; a pink quilted flight jacket and convertible cargo pant look with white parachute taping details in particular, had Timothée Chalamet’s name written all over it.