Easy and breezy: That was Luca Magliano’s approach this season. His unfussy collection was ruffled by a wind machine in the short movie he presented, which left those sweltering in Milan wishing they could join the cool characters portrayed.
To the improvised beat of 12-year-old drummer Edoardo Lovazzi — who stole the scene with his attitude and his simple white sleeveless shirt bearing Magliano’s logo — the diverse cast gradually became more and more agitated as the wind blew stronger.
According to show notes, the change of mood was a nod to the designer’s seasonal inspiration, which was Hippocrates’ humoral theory. Based on this, he divided the lineup based on four different temperaments, ranging from melancholic to choleric. Yet, the idea seemed a conceptual stretch for a collection that was straightforward in referencing the 1980s and offering commercially smart separates.
Magliano’s longtime fascination for British subcultures went through a more delicate filter, which cast a pastel-toned light on spring’s oversize blazers, pleated linen pants, slouchy workwear, billowing silk shirts made from old scarves and see-through knitwear spelling the brand’s name. Floral motifs added to this softer reinterpretation, while the designer’s signature tongue-in-cheek humor was visible in a vest adorned with prints of Disney characters.
The result was less showy compared to previous efforts, making for a breath of fresh air for the brand this season.