Marcelo Burlon’s after parties during Milan Fashion Week — rave-like gatherings for 5,000-plus people — have long been hot-ticket events. More than a year into the pandemic, the Argentinean Italian creative director has pressed pause on his DJ gigs and embraced a more intimate route.
“I’ve gone back, like many others during lockdown, to [surrounding myself with] a close circle of friends, family,” Burlon said from Ibiza, Spain, where he lives. “After so many years of overexposure I found myself at ease in keeping it intimate.”
His native Patagonia’s folk tradition and the hippies populating the Spanish island heavily informed his men’s spring collection, unveiled via look book images shot inside the 19th-century Chateau de Franconville-aux-Bois in France, which is about to undergo renovation.
The castle’s decadent interiors served as the perfect backdrop for this crafty collection of elevated streetwear, which combined Burlon’s cool-chasing attitude with a DIY bent that was charming and refreshing.
While sticking to his workwear-inspired silhouettes — baggy, relaxed and functional — he worked handcrafted crochet, patterned in the shape of the brand’s logo, into ponchos and shorts, as well as loose tank tops, while a patchwork bandana-like pattern zhushed up anoraks and shorts, as well as an organic cotton baggy suit accessorized with chunky skater sneakers. Burlon also distilled Verner Panton’s psychedelic designs into cool prints for suits and parkas, the latter crafted from recycled nylon.
Burlon said he will eventually return to physical shows and parties sometime next year. A new book published by Rizzoli retracing his life and career is due out in September, and let’s hope some pages are devoted to his recent intimate detour.