Capes for men are definitely a thing for spring 2022, with Hedi Slimane the latest designer to anchor a stretch of fabric to the shoulders. His for Celine flapped dramatically as his young models tightened into the wind, their mullets also streaming behind them.
Here was a young, energetic and richly embellished collection from Slimane, who sprinkled metallic studs, grommets and silver sequins on all manner of garments, from rugged leather vests and biker jackets to billowing rave trousers.
His filmed show also had an electricity, for his black runway plunked on a beach near Marseille was equipped with stunt ramps for shirtless freestyle motocross riders to do dramatic tricks including the “switchblade,” “tsunami” and “lazyboy.” They also raced furiously around the show set, kicking up some dust.
None of it dulled the polish of Slimane’s mirrored, bug-eyed sunglasses, his punk-ish leather dog collars and his meaty blousons with trapunto stitching. The designer still favors models who look like they’ve never tasted cheesecake or seen daylight, and they looked like rock stars stomping around in their elephant jeans, silver cowboy boots and camp shirts worn unbuttoned like Mick Jagger would back in the day.
The collection relied less on branding and more on unique graphics, the fruit of a collaboration with 14 artists who contributed oblique slogans, patches of zebra print and wacko smiley faces. Slimane rendered them on garments with gleaming, fuzzy or sparkling effects.
There were many psychedelic touches, from random squiggles on trenchcoats and trousers to colorful, tie-dye faux furs. He dubbed the collection “Cosmic Cruiser” to represent “the restless dreams of a cosmic teen.”