On the surface, Hiroaki Sueyasu’s penchant for punk seemed to be met with a childlike sensibility in his latest offering, but a closer look revealed imagery that bordered on the grotesque. The designer collaborated with Britain-born, Japan-based graphic artist Trevor Brown on what the designer described as a marriage of eccentricity and “inner pureness.”
Sueyasu incorporated Brown’s prints on oversize T-shirts, tailored suits, shirts with extra-long sleeves, and patches that were sewn onto baggy jackets and pants. Brown’s art incorporates images of dolls — often associated with innocence — in violent or sexualized situations. This was mirrored in the hair, makeup and styling of the presentation, which included curly pigtails and bright colors. The rope artist Hajime Kinoko tied colorful knots over some looks, reimagining bondage rope work as a fashion accessory and echoing the netting and belts that were present throughout the collection.
The offering hinted at the continual blurring of gender lines in fashion, with both male and female models wearing the looks, and traditionally feminine elements such as tiny floral prints, frills and ribbons lending a softness. The collection was rounded out with some more typical punk looks in bright red and dark green tartan.