Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire continued to build out their nonchalant his-and-hers wardrobe, focusing on comfort and versatility in a tonal palette of peelable, versatile layers.
There was a broader offer of unisex pieces, while other designs played a game of echoes in shared fabrics and colors. “Men’s gives volume to women’s, and women’s gives softness to men’s,” Tran summed up during a preview.
Lemaire collaborated with outsider artist Joseph Yoakum this season, splashing his naïve landscapes across items in a capsule including a mid-length dress, a short-sleeved shirt and a wrap-around quilted skirt that could double up as a picnic blanket. Yoakum’s pictures also informed the palette of the broader collection, with shades of coral, pale terracotta and lilac stemming from the mountains portrayed in his drawings.
Tailored coats were made from washed wool and shirts from dry silk, lending softness to the silhouette, while pants were wide and crafted from wool, twill or softened denim. “They are kind clothes, clothes that take care of you,” Tran said. Cropped and quilted vests added to the notion of comfort dressing, while buttons, straps and cords were designed to allow the wearer to adapt the silhouette. There were also nods to utilitarianism in a reporter vest, pocketed shirts and several looks with detachable hoods.
Accessories include asymmetric jewelry, a water-bottle carrier and a coin-purse version of Lemaire’s croissant bag the exact same size as the pastry itself, available in a range of earthy shades.
After three seasons showing digitally — the label has created dedicated mini sites to help buyers to discover its collections in detail as well as creating runway-like videos and sending out fabric swatches — Lemaire is hoping for a return to a real-life format next January. “We need to be able to feel people’s reaction, and to create human moments,” Tran said.