Given the heaviness of the times, Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix felt the spring collection of their genderless label EgonLab should feel like a break from reality, even just the space of their show.
“We tend to talk about what’s going on in society through the brand, but right now, looking at the news has us going ‘s–t, that’s too much,’” said Glémarec, with the world imagined by Lewis Carroll feeling like the perfect destination.
Of course, the pair being who they are, that escape turned into an irreverent and risqué caper that skewed more Hieronymus Bosch’s “Garden of Earthly Delights” than Disney classic, if the waffles in anatomic shapes that gave an R-rated meaning to “eat me” and “drink me” served before the show were anything to go by.
Walking a thin line between innocent and ingenue, Glémarec and Nompeix revisited their usual play on layers with the idea of bodies grown too fast or not quite yet.
Cue a lineup rife with skewed proportions, with purposeful mismatches becoming opportunities to flash some skin. Jackets were wide in the shoulder; shorts so abbreviated one pair ended up looking like high-waisted briefs; trousers so long they needed platform boots — a footwear style introduced here — to avoid pooling on the ground.
Distressed denim telegraphed the feeling that “we’re all a little frayed at the edges,” as Nompeix put it. It gave a more casual mien to their now-signature jacket, skirt and trousers combination.
For those who want to escape into digital realms, the pair has continued to build on last season’s metaverse foray. Starting on Wednesday, they’ll be taking over a section of Galeries Lafayette’s website, bringing a selection of their spring 2023 designs alive, as well as releasing virtual try-on filters on Instagram.