Hed Mayner went lighter on traditional tailoring this season, when he gleaned inspiration from antique bed linens, their forms and embellishments (think embroidery and lace) for his gender-fluid collection.
A sprinkling of softer, dreamier pieces for fall 2022 was a harbinger of things to come.
Sent down the runway was an oversize white cotton, rectangular-shaped shirt with eyelet designs paired with wide ecru, pocketed cargo pants. A beige knitted roomy sweater overlaid a long white cotton shirt, peeking out from the bottom like a frilly skirt, which overlapped light brown trousers.
He described garments as having “a strong contrast between front and back, and getting this two-dimensional look.” That was indeed the case, since Mayner spliced certain fabrics, often leaving models’ backs bare, and layered them up to create volumes native to his fashion of seasons past.
“The proportion is about removing the class, gender, status, whatever,” said Mayner, who maintained it’s not really about being feminine or masculine.
Alongside the reprising of sheets, spoons dangled from models’ ears — and other random domestic elements were used to interesting effect. “[They’re] clothes that look like you’ve just collected or found, and applied [them] on yourself,” Mayner said.
That might be so, but in artful fashion.