Parisian designer Jeanne Friot launched her genderless label during the pandemic and had been showing digitally throughout.
So for her first on-schedule presentation and third collection, she put on a party in the underbelly of the Palais de Tokyo — just the place to make the most of her already-popular feathered jeans.
But she wanted to offer a slice of festive nightlife because “it’s a place where you can find freedom, so it’s where the queer community finds itself [in all senses],” she explained, adding that she intends her brand as a platform for social commentary.
Or, as the embroidery on a cap stated: “If you’re not angry, you’re not paying attention.” For Friot, there are still plenty of reasons to be mad, from visibility for the LGBTQ community and women’s rights to sustainability and the ongoing plight of Ukraine.
These ideas were subtly woven into bold clubby looks. A blue and yellow bomber with shorts looked like a flag being waved. Asymmetric tops meant to be adjusted to highlight or conceal as necessary, T-shirts proclaimed “Love Is Love.”
Recuperated jewelry chains were crocheted together into a metal fishnet for a slinky formfitting number, while a dozen vintage belts were looped around the body to form a shift. Elsewhere, she cut luxurious materials into utilitarian shapes, using filmy organza for cargo pants and oversized bombers that left nothing to the imagination, or pleated and gathered satin to make a simple blouson feel opulent.
It’s these latter looks that highlighted Friot’s ability to balance high octane handwork with legible shapes that turned her experiments into believable propositions.