Canadian designer Joey Gollish brought it back to the beginning for his latest collection, citing Paris’ legendary Chat Noir as the spiritual home of partying.
Clubbing has been a consistent theme in his collections, and here the designer dug deeper into subcultures and dedicated it all to cabaret. Fitting on Pride night, with the closed-off streets of the Marais outside of the show venue erupting into one big rainbow bright fete.
The runway ran the length of the Musée National des Archives, decked out with café tables, cocktails and ash trays encouraging guests to light up all under the vague guise of “freedom.” “M.E.” by Gary Numan was the soundtrack.
Gollish toyed with gender, sending out a male model in a corset and ballgown skirt with a bustle made from shirtsleeves, then interpreted it more conservatively in pajama-style pinstriped short sets on men and shirtdresses on women. Fetish appeared in a top with a front-and-center, breast-exposing cutout under a leather harness; boxing gloves were added to some looks destined for a very chic underground fight club.
Fuzzy coordinated knitwear sets in oversize checks and cat-eared balaclavas were a playful nod to the rave culture he holds dear, and a sleek velvet suit was fit for a dandy. Trousers with trains at the feet were a new idea, but aren’t going to be a hit on the dance floor.
Mr. Saturday hits all the nightlife notes for the club kids and fashion fans that got into the show without an invite.