Pierre Mahéo is in a celebratory mood: he’s marking Officine Générale‘s 10th anniversary with seven new stores in the second half in places ranging from Paris and Lyon to Los Angeles. Next year, he plans to open a further four stores in the U.S.
He’s feeling more confident, too, fine-tuning his collections, which are known for their soft tailoring, and using womenswear to inform his men’s styles, and vice versa.
For spring, he used silk for the first time in menswear, and in women’s, he added masculine elements such as oversize shirts with statement cuffs, and balanced it out with shiny, sexy silver jewelry.
Womenswear is becoming a bigger part of the collection and now represents a little more than 30 percent of sales, said Mahéo, who showed roughly the same number of women’s look as he did men’s.
Silhouettes were loose and layered: models wore tailored suits with the trouser cuffs rolled and they padded around the courtyard of the Hôtel de Soubise wearing sandals, and kerchiefs tied loosely around their necks.
Colors were neutral with a military edge and included espresso, olive, navy blue and khaki. Those were offset by dashes of rosy pink and deep purple.
Mahéo worked pattern and texture into the collection in the form of breezy ikat print trousers; silky pink pajama sets, which he paired with tailored pieces, and lots of lightweight suede for jackets.
Mahéo, who trained as a tailor before starting the label, said customers like the fit of his clothing and keep coming back for more, hence the punchy retail rollout strategy. It will be interesting to see what the next 10 years will bring this hardworking designer.