Speaking over Zoom from Beijing, under what he described as “semi-lockdown,” Sean Suen took his inspiration for spring 2023 from the slightly blurry, uncomfortable feeling of a hangover, likening it to the uncertainty of recent times. “I’m a drinker, I like to drink, and sometimes I have a hangover,” the designer said jovially.
This leitmotif took the collection in a more casual direction, veering toward loungewear with satiny pajamas, elongated, back-to-front night shirts, silk boxers and lace accents.
Outsized — and at times back-to-front — tailoring evoked sloppy dressing, although it was anything but. Button placements added versatility to the silhouette, meaning certain pieces could be fastened “wrong” (or right, should the wearer desire), while oversize, chunky hand-knits channeled a sense of comfort for days spent lounging on the sofa nursing a sore head — or shut indoors under a stay-at-home order.
The uniquely black-and-white color palette extended to the concept of his video, filmed to be blurred and a little dizzy. “In a hangover there is no color,” Suen said.