Five seasons in, Richard Chai is still carving out the identity of his Love collection, which appears to be turning more and more toward streetwear. He has an eye for it, particularly in terms of color and pattern. For spring, he showed men’s and women’s together for the first time, cultivating a hippie surf vibe with a variety of prints and textures that were bohemian without turning crunchy. The first look out said it all: a women’s shrunken safari jacket worn over a yellow and green peplum tunic that looked like burlap, paired with floral-print biker shorts in acid colors. Throughout, he played with matching and mismatching patterns and layering, some of it charmingly wacky such as the women’s apron kilts worn over pants. These added to the show’s playful energy, as did the unconstructed blazers for men that were paired with mesh basketball shorts, which hinted at a new level of maturity.

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