Alan Vega’s song “Kung Foo Cowboy” and the strict lines of the abacus were the reference points for this spartan collection. There were mandarin collars on bomber jackets, boxy vests and kilt-like shorts, which were the main event. Long made everything with lots of volume, using pleats and panels to create a billowing silhouette in which a martial artist could comfortably issue a roundhouse kick. The shorts had high waistbands with the pleats rising to form belt loops, and came in shades of gray, dark teal, and black. Above the waist, shirts, crew neck knits and bombers with leather sleeves were often cut close to the body. Texture came via chunky hand-knit sweaters in a cotton and bamboo blend yarn embroidered with a shimmering sliver thread.