The building blocks of American sportswear — T-shirts, jeans jackets, chinos — were the guiding light for designer Italo Zucchelli’s latest collection. While unspectacular things to put on a runway, he gave them a technical or luxury spin and paraded them on a cast of stone-faced models with names like Otto and Thorben.
Are you ready for the comeback of stonewashed denim? Zucchelli is (it is a cornerstone of the brand, after all), and he showed it head-to-toe, the jackets boxy; the pants carrot-shaped. Jean jackets came shrunken in navy suede, or flaring in rubberized leather. T-shirts were cut boxy in stiff nylon mesh.
Tapered, single-pleat pants were the big fashion message: in cement gray cotton for day; with a satin waistband for evening. Suits came in athletic two-button cuts in a variety of seersucker fabrics. The only surprise in this restrained yet repetitive show were stylized surfer florals. They bloomed on shorts, shirts and suits as the Beach Boys crooned on the soundtrack.