Designer Veronique Nichanian gave haute materials off-duty airs for spring, sending out a plethora of sporty silhouettes in unexpected fabrics. Think zippered parkas in chiffon calfskin; T-shirts in perforated leather; and sweaters inset with lambskin panels.

At times, the blend of the hyper-luxurious and casual felt a little forced, as in a T-shirt in black crocodile skin. More appealing were the sophisticated, summery suits that wore their craftsmanship lightly, done in deep blue linen canvas or virtually sheer seersucker in pale shades. Along with a series of single-breasted, navy wool and mohair tuxedos, they hit a discreetly sumptuous note.

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