This baroque collection — filled with jacquard, embroidery and flashes of ruby red threads — was on display in the cloisters of a grand Milanese palazzo, while a cocktail party hummed in the central courtyard. “I think every man has a double identity — at least I do,” said Daniele Cavalli, a son of Roberto and his wife Eva and the brand’s creative director for men’s wear. “I like tailored clothing — and I like leather.”

To wit: The collection was a mix of the two — and so much more. Cavalli’s prints were inspired both by the geometric patterns formed by a teleidoscope, similar to a kaleidoscope, and by the subtle waves and swirls of traditional Damascus steel blades and swords.


The angular teleidoscope shapes popped up on silk shirts, while the Damascus swirls — and their distorted images as seen through a teleidoscope — were woven as jacquards into suits, made into cutout patterns for leather jackets, or embroidered onto the lapels of dinner jackets and evening shirts. Evening clothes were dramatic, including black shirts with bits of silver embroidery, and one black dinner jacket paved entirely with ruby red embroidery.

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