With his confident debut last season, Aldo Maria Camillo performed a feat: reviving interest in Cerruti 1881, the house that has undergone a revolving door of designers and managers in recent years.

The Italian designer confirmed his talent for restrained elegance with an opening lineup of black ensembles that combined sober volumes with subtly sheer fabrics. Suits and coats were left unlined to allow a glimpse of the underlying structure, including shoulder pads.

Camillo stumbled with his forays into casualwear, which felt like contrived nods to a more fashion-conscious clientele. An example: chest-level half-belts on jackets and coats. More successful was his use of luxurious textures, including a ridged moiré fabric on a zip-up coat, and a brocade-effect black fabric embroidered with a naval rope motif.