The rocker-turned-dandy attitude Maison Martin Margiela conjured for spring worked best in a series of suits a man could sport at a late-night concert and a dressed-up garden party alike. They came with bartender-inspired aprons or cut-off blazers worn with belts around the waist.

Harking back to the old Margiela vocabulary, the suit jackets boasted inside-out effects, raw edges, and sliced sleeves and lapels. With a palette that played it safe, centered on off-white, midnight blue, ice gray and beige, the collection had an all-age appeal.