Jonathan Saunders toned it down for spring, employing an earthy, thrift-shop palette and a more measured approach to pattern.

The Scottish designer mentioned “1981, Memphis, Miami” among references for a collection whose graphic sensibility came through as much in the shapes — boxy jackets and Macs, or bombers in bonded fabrics – as in the prints, mainly bands of color, paint splatters, offbeat crackle motifs and another resembling a chain-link fence.

Yet the decorations were distinctly his, including flashes of metallic and knits that were densely mottled. “I guess it’s my way of doing subtle sophistication,” he shrugged.

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