Crisp and neat, nautical style is easy to like — and a good number of designers are returning to it once more. Frida Giannini went for a lively mix of admirals and pirates in a Gucci show headlined by sprightly accessories.
Cross-body messenger bags and sailor sacks with thick guitar straps in regal reds or natty stripes looked like instant hits, and added ceremonial and rebellious airs to a collection focused mainly on tailoring. The suit shapes were still rooted in the Sixties: the jackets taut and trim; the pants stovepipe slim and halting above the ankle to exalt horse-bit loafers in matte crocodile.
A two-button suit in a cotton-linen that resembled denim was a standout, along with the opening look in white with its laser-cut edges and grosgrain arm trim. Denim — gaining momentum this European season — also made an appearance as crisp, Beetlejuice-striped jeans, and as faded, paint-smudged castaway roll-ups.
Backstage, Giannini said she sought to marry the aristocratic, jet-set Gucci man with his free-spirited side, the latter represented by such diverse rockers as Mick Jagger, Steven Tyler and David Crosby, a sailing enthusiast who extensively toured the Caribbean in a schooner.