Classical and contemporary dance is suddenly pirouetting into the fashion consciousness. Picking up where Tomas Maier left off in Milan chez Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten took the elements of the dancer’s rehearsal, performance and backstage wardrobes — the plunging T-shirts, the tights, the robes — and created a collection as chic as it was languid.
In a season of breezy coats, Van Noten’s were exceptional, from liquid trenches to silk dusters anchored by harnesses embellished with bullion embroideries. Tailoring was pajama loose; shirts filmy and silken, occasionally etched with pen drawings of a nude in movement. Van Noten is becoming a go-to resource for novelty pants, and there was plenty of choice, from flaring pinstripes to more athletic styles hinting at toreador pants or side-striped sweats.
Prints and ethnic embroideries were used sparingly, giving the stage to rich bottle greens, burgundy, navy and fleshy, neutral tones.
The Belgian designer has been pushing beyond his comfort zone in recent seasons, but this time it didn’t feel forced. Having costumed several performances for acclaimed Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker, Van Noten made all the right moves.