Coach’s first full-scale show during London Collections: Men saw creative director Stuart Vevers steer the brand in a younger, more freewheeling direction.

 

He name-checked The Beach Boys, the Kennedy boys and the Beastie Boys backstage, respectively symbolizing Sixties surf culture, classic Americana and Nineties hip-hop, the three elements Vevers blended on a sloping, skate-park-style runway.

 

The searing psychedelic swirls and borderline-cheesy tiger stripes were the big surprises, giving this outerwear-driven collection serious spunk. The bold motifs worked best as panels and trim on summer parkas and blousons in sturdy canvas.

 

Leather jackets, headlined by trim racer styles for him and her, also came gussied up with suede panels or mash-ups of animal prints. Handsome navy trenchcoats and yacht-club blazers nodded to Cape Cod and tamed the retro shenanigans. “I wanted it to feel fresh, young and joyful at the same time – for a cool, American guy,” Vevers mused backstage.

 

Accessories amplified his intention. Shearling shower sandals and patchwork messenger bags heightened the quirky, counterculture vibe of this winning and energetic show.

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