Craig Green is a fashion purist. His spring show was an ode to loose shapes and his fetish padding and streamers, punched up with strong colors ranging from safety orange to kelly green. As interludes, some models carried fabric tacked to twin flagpoles, reducing fashion to its most basic essence: cloth covering the body (save for an eye slit and a window onto the sternum).
His monastic, judo-inspired clothes have been influential, and here he made them more sophisticated — and feminine — showing several exits on women and putting men in sweaters with portholes at the breast, threaded through with a scarf, or inset with puckers where the nipples would be.
Multilayer sarongs in filmy silks heightened the androgynous mood, while a stirring Max Richter soundtrack added an emotional tug.
These Luddite clothes — luxurious, elegant and unorthodox — poke a thumb in the eye of that tiresome trinity of influences: tailoring, ath-leisure and streetwear. They do that rare thing in men’s wear: They make you think, and feel.