Named after the late artist and avid chess player, Marcel Duchamp, the brand has long been known for its painterly flourishes and vibrant use of color. However, creative director Gianni Colarossi is intent on toning things down, “keeping all the elements of fun and quirkiness — but executing them in a more refined way,” he said.
Artistic references and checks — a nod to the chessboard — were everywhere, albeit in subtle iterations. Daytime highlights included a gingham jacket and a gray irregular weave jacket worn atop a matching check waistcoat and pants in cotton shot silk.
After dark, it was all about shawl-collared evening jackets, such as a navy sable silk one with a contrast collar, and a midnight blue velvet version with a pin-dot and a tiny ace of spades etched into the button fastening. Velvet bow ties were satisfyingly bouffant, and another winner was a blue-black patterned silk jacquard shirt.