Lee Roach, a graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins, logged time working at both the punkish Meadham Kirchhoff label and Savile Row tailor Kilgour before starting his own label in 2010, and those disparate experiences showed in this collection.
The lineup offered a subversive – yet precise – take on tailoring. The coats and jackets looked as if they had been taken apart and stitched back together — or turned inside out to reveal their construction. One white cotton coat was done with reverse seams and a contrasting gray panel at the chest, and fastened with utilitarian strips of material and D-rings, while another coat came in washed denim and was laced with black harnesslike straps, that evoked a straitjacket.
Roach paired the jackets with tailored cargo pants and slip-on, block-heeled shoes, which played to his very left-field take on formalwear. And the static installation – with the looks on mannequins lined up on mirrored platforms, lit by strips of fluorescent light – added to the collection’s eerie, futuristic mood.