To the happy tunes of bossa nova, which made models swing a little in the leafy patio of Boglioli’s Milan headquarters, Jay Vosoghi conjured a whiff of late-Sixties Brazil — also to the delight of a flock of pink flamingos that chattered intensely in the back of the adjacent garden. It was the perfect setting for a season strong on exotic colors and relaxed silhouettes. Plum red mixed boldly with ultramarine blue, while mustard looked cheerful and bright next to vivid turquoise. Vosoghi built energetically on the brand’s sartorial heritage, not restraining himself to a single style of trousers. They ranged from cropped and tapered, which looked sharp on a graphic linen jacquard pair, to fuller ones done in silk-wool, their sole embellishment a distinct single pleat and elegant high waist.
“I felt I wanted to be a little bit more playful and give men a choice this season,” the designer said of the plethora of styles he pulled from the period drawer, but not without giving them a modernist spin. It came via a pronounced focus on fabrics: Tonal Madras prints for evening, summer tweeds for a pair of retro tailored shorts and Milano rib knits for cabana shirts. All developed in-house, they exalted haute slacker chic.