Having moved his company to where he can control the production process, i.e. Milan, Damir Doma presented a spring collection that was unmistakably his. It started with the color palette — a serene mix of white, cream, khaki, blue and bleached pink — and continued with a volley of soft, relaxed silhouettes to the sound of a live solo by American pianist Pete Drungle. The bottoms set the mood, featuring an athletic drop-crotch or straight fluid leg. On top, Doma paired long, languid tunics with lapel-less tailored jackets, worn over baggy Bermuda shorts. They looked cool and easy rendered in textured raw linen or papery cotton.
Women’s looks followed the same lead, offering airy silhouettes, best on breezy dresses, along with a double-button coat that telegraphed soft chic.
“Being here after eight years [in business] is like hitting the reset button,” the designer said pre-show of his first “Milanese chapter.” “This is an introduction to my codes and in a way I wanted to remind myself what they are.”
Doma said he is not a designer who wants to shock but who aims to push men’s wear out of its comfort zone. For spring, he did so via a pure and austerely minimalist approach whose only extravaganza was a run of arty knits. Picture bleached and overdyed knit jacquards patch-worked together on elongated sweaters that were slightly rough around the edges.
Overall, the combination of rawness and simplicity channeled a sensitive, self-assured masculinity.