Andreas Melbostad took his spring collection in a more utilitarian direction, going big on compartments and multifunctional outerwear. He sewed pockets on the backs of oversize leather jackets, strapped them around the models’ thighs or turned them into messenger bags worn flat across the chest and underneath blazers that boasted slightly elongated silhouettes. The notion of function looked best when paired with form, as seen on a series of Mao-collared tops, half shirts and half jackets.

Going against the wind, which has brought slouchy shapes and soft textures to the Milan catwalks this season, Melbostad proposed his denim bottoms tightly fitted with rather thick-looking ripple effects or strings that ran through grommets, at times spanning the full leg.