Giorgio Armani went au naturel with a collection that was packed with wool, washed silk, cotton and lightweight leather in favor of any newfangled technical fabrics — and true to his roots as the master of tailored slouch. “This collection is less formal, more baggy and comfortable — a reaction to the toothpick,” he said, alluding to all the skinny silhouettes he’s been seeing on the street and on television.
Models wore signature Emporio accessories of yore — soft berets and round glasses — and dressed in full, high-waist trousers that were cropped or cuffed at the ankle. They were paired with jacket-sweater hybrids — some with snap-fronts, others with asymmetric zips or fly fronts. Even tailored, double-breasted suits had flow factor in the form of fluttery shirts, or scarves worn with or under jackets. Other suits were inspired by joggers’ gear, their hip-skimming jackets edged with elastic.
Armani pulled from the sportsman’s wardrobe, including baseball jackets, a teal leather biker one and a blue hooded windbreaker, also in leather. Belted trenches were loose and fluid, resembling boxers’ robes, and even footwear had a sporty edge, with chunky-soled wingtips held in place with a sandal strap at the back.