With men’s wear moving toward looser shapes for spring 2016, Stefano Pilati is in his element, given his fortes: coats with swagger, larger pants and draped tailoring.
Liquid fabrics — from dense, light-absorbing black ones to pale, gauzy wools — amplified the windblown allure of Pilati’s generous silhouettes, showcased on young models treading a raised catwalk in a blinding white space.
This breezy show worked disparate moods effectively: a vaguely futuristic segment of flowing coats, draped blousons and full-leg trousers in Darth Vader’s favorite shade; a Fifties, suburban vibe heightened by picnic plaids on golf jackets, barbecue shirts and salesman trenches, and then Zen, spalike ensembles in optical white.
Pilati is reinventing and stripping down Zegna’s tailoring. His trim, featherweight double-breasted jackets, light as shirts, could be worn in layers, while alterna-suits — accessorized with briefcases — included bubbly blousons and boxy shirt jackets in dark plaids matched to gently ballooning pants.
The designer’s eye for directional fabrics and modernist cuts is bringing the “twist of fashion” this tailoring giant is after. And two years into his tenure, the designer seems as relaxed and confident as his clothes.