“Young, everyday basics, done in a more sophisticated way,” was Silvia Venturini Fendi’s modus operandi for spring, yielding one of her most approachable men’s collections to date.
Luxury can be off-putting. A T-shirt? Never. So the designer gave generous proportions even to the Roman house’s most luscious stuff: Zippered suede trench coats and blousons, and snakeskin overcoats with a rubberized degrade in petrol blue. They looked cool and unstuffy paired with roomy Bermudas, wide-legged track pants in a sponge-y fabric — and, of course, T-shirts, the flashiest in over-dyed Lurex.
A natural palette that skewed dark gave these relaxed clothes a chic and dressy allure. Shirt-like jackets in the house’s Selleria leather were buffed to a high gloss, and stitched in silver metal instead of natural thread.
Fendi’s ruse was playing organic elements off more technical ones, a story that played out on the show set: River stones trapped in wet look resin for the runway and backdrop.
The leather goods — often boxy like the clothes — were striking and spiked with humor, strung with furry smiley-face pompoms and hairy monster charms. Tiny silver backpacks, not much bigger than a smartphone were clipped on other bags, or clutched in the fist.