In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, designer Rodolfo Paglialunga sailed in his own direction with a severe collection full of geometric shapes and tricky silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather; shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon. Proportions were not easy, even for outerwear, with one shiny, fisherman’s style coat that fell well below the knee.
The muted palette featured dovecote gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.