Alessandro Dell’Acqua steered last season’s chic nerd into a more grungy direction for fall, referencing Nineties silhouettes with a rather raw touch.
Long knitted sweaters came with a deliberately worn-out look. Belts hung down the sides of straight-leg, fuller pants, while oversize bombers were matched with baggy shorts, imbuing the lineup with a great deal of street appeal and an essentially youthful character.
The collection was also an exercise in gender-bending, a key trend all over the London and Milan runways. The unisex theme was most apparent in a series of lace numbers, including tank tops and mix-media shirt-jackets, while on other occasions, slit skirts were worn under voluminous cardigans or were paired with elongated T-shirts and tone-on-tone workwear shirts. The layering provided a certain playfulness to the more minimalist No. 21 male.