Donrad Duncan, who previously designed for Victorinox, drew from the elegance of fencing for his spring Engineered for Motion collection, which held its first presentation in New York although it’s in its fourth season.
The collection showcased overt references to the sport — fencing pants with tuxedo stripes and white nylon bombers with high necks — that married well with two-tone knit polos and button-up shirts.
The tailored items were relaxed and made from a lightweight wool or a stretch dobby fabric.
Raincoats were transparent in an effort to highlight the fused seams. “We are pushing the boundaries on how to join pieces of fabric together with minimal sewing to keep the seams flat and lightweight,” Duncan said.
The collection was a sophisticated take on technical clothes for day, but sometimes felt too activewear influenced for anything but a touché or two.