Putting his collection on the runway for the first time outdoors, with the intoxicating early evening light slanting into the peristyle of the Palais Galliera fashion museum, thrust Haider Ackermann into a new place: the realm of approachable chic.
The ensembles were less complicated — no master’s degree in scarf manipulation required — and the elements simpler, especially tissue weight linen tunics that looked terrific partly tucked in front. (Okay, maybe that requires a bit of practice.)
Ackermann’s low-slung trousers – stovepipe slim in Lurex, extravagantly pleated in pinstriped cotton — ran counter to most other runways, and that’s why they held one’s attention, giving every outfit an exotic, North African or rock star aspect. Snug vests or billowing, elegantly crumpling jackets added drama.
There were slim duster coats and handsome double-breasted jackets in linen; slouchy tank tops, and cropped pants in a vivid cornflower. Still, there was plenty of black for more tortured, arty types, including a belted jacket bearing the golden scrawl on the invitation: “Speak the truth even if your voice is shaking.”
Spoken loudly or softly, the collection had some of the most summery looks seen yet this European season.