Each season, Pierre Mahéo reminds men that they don’t need to look like peacocks to stand out in the crowd. The designer opted for a runway show in lieu of his usual presentation to show off his novel tailoring.
It came via pleated pants that were large around the waist and thighs and turned ever tighter, just before they stopped above the ankle. “The idea was to break the plain front and juxtapose the volume with a soft shoulder above,” Mahéo explained backstage, referring to the construction as “French pleats,” borrowed from photographs of Marcello Mastroianni strolling in the streets of Saint Germain, where the show took place. Done in fresco wool, linen or cotton, they looked chic when matched with short, more fitted blazers, or informal in combination with Japanese jersey T-shirts.
The collection also stood out via its no-nonsense denim bottoms in clean white, gray and indigo blue. A little shrunken and with rolled-up hems, they let off a Fifties vibe.