The brand hit the hippie trail this season with a mix of slim, Sixties-inspired tailoring and looser silhouettes inspired by intrepid travelers and India’s glamorous maharajas. The brand didn’t stage a show or presentation this season as its creative director Sarah Burton is on maternity leave, but that did not diminish the impact of this dreamy, romantic collection.
Silhouettes ranged from the fitted — as in eight-button, double-breasted Savile Row suits with thick stripes — to the roomier and more exotic. The latter included a striped silk djellaba, coats covered in a sun-bleached black-and-white leopard print, and a jacket with a high collar, and raw-edged embroidery. A heavy, navy blue cotton coat with military-style frogging down the front had a similar Sgt. Pepper spirit.
There was rich embellishment and pattern everywhere, from the tea-stained picture postcard and wild animal print splashed across short-sleeved shirts and a silk twill trench; to dark paisley suits shot through with Lurex threads; to matte metallic embroidery on velvet dinner jackets, and metal and sequin sparkles on long coats.
A misty landscape print with hummingbirds spread across tailored clothing, while golden embroidered sunflowers blossomed on velvet slippers, an olive twill trench and the patch pockets of a short jacket. At times, the petals looked as if they were in decay, and peeling off the fabric — a signature decadent McQueen touch.