Raimund Berthold’s collection, with exaggerated dimensions and pops of color, felt fresh and fluid — ideal for summer in the metropolis.
Among his inspirations was a French army cavalry coat he found in a Los Angeles flea market, and Anish Kapoor’s Ascension (Red) installation of a red dust cloud permeating the air at New York’s Guggenheim Museum.
The main focus was outerwear: There were feather-light dusters, sleeveless coats and ponchos in cottons and parachute silks. Two standout trenches had a trapeze shape, their silhouettes evoking the proportions of the vintage cavalry version. “The original had to be wide enough to fit over the rear end of a horse,” Berthold said with a smile.
Among the other nice pieces were long, asymmetric, draped vests and wide-leg pants in suede. The vest folded over to fasten at the neck, while the trousers folded and wrapped around the waist. Robust leather sandals came from a collaboration Dr. Martens.