Elizabeth Fraser’s angelic, otherworldly voice on the soundtrack accentuated the emotional charge of Craig Green’s spring collection, marked by a softer, more contemplative mood.
The designer hammers away with his monastic layers and bold deconstruction, padded panels flapping or dangling when they’re not lashed to the garment with Frankenstein lacing. Yet this season he opened up his uncompromising fashion universe to a more homespun, organic aesthetic, employing geometric prints familiar on traditional quilts along with Krishna colors and burlap textures, while managing to keep things rugged and masculine.
“Romantic” is the word he repeated backstage, highlighting the flag patterns that added graphic verve to his enveloping ensembles, in the past mostly rendered in searing, monochromatic colors.
If his clothes have more soul than most, it’s because so much labor goes into them as Green described a process of bleaching garments and then dyeing color back into them, lending a lived-in, sunbaked appearance to his pastel palette, an emerging trend on day one of London Collections: Men.
While Green inched toward commercial territory with a suite of handsome trenchcoats in beige, chocolate brown or black with modest doses of slashing and lacing, the show climaxed with austere black-and-white shirts and pants that only covered the front of the body, anchored to the body via thin lacing anchored to grommets.
Designer-of-the-moment Gosha Rubchinskiy, dressed in a Supreme sweatshirt with detergent-packing logo, looked on intently, signaling that Green remains a talent to watch.