The Hardy Amies spring collection was as crisp and refreshing as the Whispering Angel rosé circulating on silver trays at the brand’s spiffed-up salon.

The bleached denim with knee rips and raw hems were more Vetements than Savile Row, but that’s the whole point. Darren Barrowcliff, head of design, is injecting currency into the brand by elevating sportswear — an abbreviated coach jacket in the finest Italian cotton, for example — and knocking the stuffing out of tailoring with pinched shoulders, patch pockets and lived-in fabrics like washed moleskin.

The vintage jeans, sourced and repurposed by the design team, won’t be commercialized, yet they served the same purpose as the Sunspel tank tops and T-shirts Barrowcliff put under tuxedos and suits, including his own. “Questioning the formal suit,” he shrugged.

Naturally his tapered pants ended with white-soled chukka boots, a new collaboration with Austrian footwear maker Ludwig Reiter.

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