Kiko Kostadinov’s show notes state that he takes an “antidecorative” approach to design, and aims to “subvert ideas of utilitarian dress.”


To wit: this Bulgarian-born, London-based designer, who garnered buzz in February with his Central Saint Martins master’s collection, played on functional shapes in a deliberately no-frills color palette.


The inventiveness came in Kostadinov’s deft tweaks of these familiar silhouettes — a beige boiler suit had sharp lapels and oversize chest pockets, while a Boy Scout-style outfit came equipped with a wide, cotton tool-belt. There were also crisp cotton trenchcoats, and youthful suits. The latter came in lightweight cotton and sported subtle utility details — zippers at the ankles that created a slight flare, and belts at the waist. The designer also fashioned protective cloth hats that knotted around the models’ heads.


The presentation — held in a dark, warehouse space lit by columns of fluorescent lights — marked a slick debut for this promising designer.