Which way are the winds blowing in streetwear, now that high fashion has copped the bomber jacket and sneakers? Looking for clues on the tightly packed benches at the KTZ show, one could spot any number of coveted names, from Vetements and Palace to Off-White and KTZ.

 

Logos still rule, and KTZ’s Marjan Pejoski disguised many as handwriting and arranged in checkered patterns, or embedded them in busy foulards, an emerging London print trend. His came in black-and-white and were worn head-to-toe, splashed on leggings, shorts, parkas, sweatshirts and — occasionally — face masks.

 

Excepting the bright new Pantha du Prince track “Lichterschmaus” that ricocheted through a dank nightclub under an East London bridge, this was a dark-hearted collection, tinged with S&M harnesses, black leather and other tarlike textures.

 

Pouchlike pockets with dangling laces will be a signifier of this collection, which also pointed to workwear shapes as a new frontier. Don’t worry, the black hoodie lives on, here stretched past the knee with extra sleeves to knot around the hips.

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